%PDF-1.3 1 0 obj << /Type /Catalog /Outlines 2 0 R /Pages 3 0 R >> endobj 2 0 obj << /Type /Outlines /Count 0 >> endobj 3 0 obj << /Type /Pages /Kids [6 0 R 17 0 R 19 0 R 21 0 R 23 0 R ] /Count 5 /Resources << /ProcSet 4 0 R /Font << /F1 8 0 R /F2 9 0 R /F3 10 0 R >> /XObject << /I1 11 0 R >> >> /MediaBox [0.000 0.000 595.280 841.890] >> endobj 4 0 obj [/PDF /Text /ImageC ] endobj 5 0 obj << /Creator (DOMPDF) /CreationDate (D:20140818093947+01'00') /ModDate (D:20140818093947+01'00') /Title (Reading and Writing Recipe Books 1550-1800) >> endobj 6 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Annots [ 12 0 R 15 0 R ] /Contents 7 0 R >> endobj 7 0 obj << /Length 4562 >> stream q 381.750 0 0 120.000 34.016 687.874 cm /I1 Do Q 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Published on )] TJ ET BT 99.356 676.469 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reviews in History)] TJ ET BT 190.016 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( \()] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 197.012 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 197.012 675.075 m 357.332 675.075 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 357.332 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\))] TJ ET 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.391 653.743 526.499 1.500 re S BT 34.016 615.321 Td /F3 18.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing Recipe Books 1550-1800)] TJ ET BT 34.016 273.323 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing Recipe Books, 1550?1800)] TJ ET BT 262.664 273.323 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( includes 11 rigorously documented essays addressing a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 259.067 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(genre that began to attract attention following Susan Leonardi?s 1989 article, ?Recipes for reading: Summer )] TJ ET BT 34.016 244.811 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(pasta, lobster a la Riseholme, and Key Lime Pie?.)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 272.984 244.811 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\(1\))] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 272.984 243.417 m 286.976 243.417 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 286.976 244.811 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( The editors, Michelle DiMeo and Sarah Pennell, seek )] TJ ET BT 34.016 230.555 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(to demonstrate how far the study of medical/culinary recipe books has come in the past 25 years, offering an )] TJ ET BT 34.016 216.299 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(array of approaches ? for example, literary, archaeological, historical, and linguistic ? that not only )] TJ ET BT 34.016 202.043 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(consolidate that progress but also showcase the potential for future research. The product of their efforts is at )] TJ ET BT 34.016 187.787 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(once fascinating \(who would have made the connection between recipes and women?s poetic lives?\) and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 173.531 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(exasperating \(let?s hope that )] TJ ET BT 173.984 173.531 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 274.652 173.531 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( does not, by its impressive rigor, authorize some )] TJ ET BT 34.016 159.275 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(approaches over others, and define the field by limiting the enquiries that academics undertake\). In this )] TJ ET BT 34.016 145.019 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(review, therefore, I would like to describe what is exciting about this collection, but also discuss its )] TJ ET BT 34.016 130.763 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(limitations, pointing to what has been left out or not sufficiently emphasized with regard to both form and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 116.507 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(function in the early modern recipe book.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 90.251 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(First, however, what precisely was a recipe book ? and for that matter, a recipe ? during the early modern )] TJ ET BT 34.016 75.995 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(period? The fact that there was no single embodiment of either is crucial for understanding what preoccupies )] TJ ET BT 34.016 61.739 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the essays in )] TJ ET BT 97.676 61.739 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 198.344 61.739 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(, which recur continually to basic genre-defining issues such as how these )] TJ ET BT 34.016 584.699 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Review Number:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 570.443 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(1507)] TJ ET BT 34.016 556.187 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Publish date:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 541.931 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Thursday, 14 November, 2013)] TJ ET BT 34.016 527.675 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Editor:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 513.419 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Michelle DiMeo)] TJ ET BT 34.016 499.163 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Sara Pennell)] TJ ET BT 34.016 484.907 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(ISBN:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 470.651 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(9780719087271)] TJ ET BT 34.016 456.395 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Price:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 442.139 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(65.00)] TJ ET BT 34.016 427.883 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Pages:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 413.627 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(256pp.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 399.371 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Publisher:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 385.115 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Manchester University Press)] TJ ET BT 34.016 370.859 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Publisher url:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 356.603 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.manchesteruniversitypress.co.uk/cgi-bin/indexer?product=9780719087271)] TJ ET BT 34.016 342.347 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Place of Publication:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 328.091 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Manchester)] TJ ET BT 34.016 313.835 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Reviewer:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 299.579 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Sandra Sherman)] TJ ET endstream endobj 8 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F1 /BaseFont /Times-Roman /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 9 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F2 /BaseFont /Times-Italic /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 10 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F3 /BaseFont /Times-Bold /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 11 0 obj << /Type /XObject /Subtype /Image /Width 509 /Height 160 /Filter /FlateDecode /DecodeParms << /Predictor 15 /Colors 3 /Columns 509 /BitsPerComponent 8>> /Mask [ 255 255 255 255 255 255 ] /ColorSpace /DeviceRGB /BitsPerComponent 8 /Length 3280>> stream x[EQ㎦fVttҒ +3O{?lGDQԯDrB^.ϯ%~'0۠/2>0AG_>0j0GCfE67>rB^}@  !&y+r?INp:erc b8f=rQC!~-Wf^^zF[)G 2ޯe7V_Go3Ke GEGOo8rώ#\1ZY~N6^H}yLxS-!:412V+u\-LSO?xVvZ|GjǮT_8EYJF=Tw^ 7GxfN/S:Ʌ~ʟtt?5n÷J'JcF-GVξx{rO~tJd;#a\7}|~y'>}c2C vR}f׈**h.)_&@pfzjsx:5;S\vKhM5j=!Cn+h"u]a EUN]jn=k<,:Ք>sU!ni~6EJ)¦72?G}[y}_vc$t?iSܟ2Zݞ,VN?_`='RFK1A2qv&X_lLRWY'%:I㢖zb_UEx\>&ɆBˏ~K@ \gYØU4}$8Dv!'Q'*+Εj(UCGo[#< 2Ja(sZi9fZKE Rn`u\9r^Zmɯ׹}mstO4uc~#'jEvۼ Dx[z ޏQ4KL5,5u3>i^uÒ-53ba ~,~/pyt1fMU'CVm:qv~=Y'Es"WsφG?l_kN5}],Ow7 uh`xƫ?zMl7ٻv$A(4Dl(wwH} ?=[=S;yC]^BK>㕪9`Z'Wj;E|:bf>kCԘ#RY,iv쵗~}n'"1u" *uO΄/2^Sxr(!/DD\~mJyZ!MmrA!#u[if|99WB WΡpp}w}sh#,\ &:%˳X?D3 %W0cC?o̲^} F3XLVn]Cߖiϧ!7}yZJ#P7]=)7Ρp;>> Ye^xx{Oafw{ ;>4gfLt ʊ:q%#r/)pv!O4wGh|dS ӣݽހ-gVUC'pBxrB^} 7JA^} /'8!`:r?}}],X  }6y!`/~Br?}Q< >k7vx"] ,' .3jn{-i}|~%-};b6#U)7繎kiEw 㤳:E}[޼c"rꬊ7Dc$~"/Y&zSd:tFȌCrʙ`7u .#[-<)j ?TGS(j~oTup(hjU4PlJ=}|it.ҽ@\wʨuXÞZcx18Wo<~ikOg,ވ\^?EneyZcc0[R١z|zv7_m:_n]a?osS3~j^ hD.a_X'KfBX6w wݶ"Oa:,bvhrWH[uCF-Xfc}>x+Rz)2N-B 7y^٨;[/vg? | |2Sve}=o䑰j[vWjF0{굦?VI~}xM(_TlG__+]:#к?S} c>GŸD7 !w{S{B =x7a?oE#)+Gz:o_4Q<;n?\tt7?mGCџQGu4kņOF>F?#} hP&ђߴM#u!.СtL2^#o nIk_i.~7tr@n 1P~3?.[]=S5b߮~Yo^HFH YBi8a4iom>CKgMy*;?zqEӕ` >zB9iFzC?XF?ޟIܰ펉A}{I5ᄊx%ez#Mp@rߎpi]IOVjzuJt\۰f׺u5><,J~PTJp1)}){9N {!`/> endstream endobj 12 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 13 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 197.0117 675.3895 357.3317 687.2695 ] >> endobj 13 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews) >> endobj 14 0 obj [6 0 R /Fit] endobj 15 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 16 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 272.9837 243.7315 286.9757 255.6115 ] >> endobj 16 0 obj << /Type /Action >> endobj 17 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Contents 18 0 R >> endobj 18 0 obj << /Length 5110 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 796.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(texts were produced and what kind of knowledge they encompass. Recipes could be oral, or perhaps )] TJ ET BT 34.016 782.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(inscribed only on fugitive pieces of paper; in virtually all cases, they lacked the detailed, careful instructions )] TJ ET BT 34.016 767.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that today we take for granted. They covered medical, household, and culinary topics, following the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 753.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?huswife? between stillroom and kitchen. They could be hand-written collections passed down within )] TJ ET BT 34.016 739.445 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(families, citing contributions by numerous individuals and often continually amended in a variety of hands. )] TJ ET BT 34.016 725.189 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(They could also be printed, in many cases mimicking ? but also seeking to outdo ? the manuscript )] TJ ET BT 34.016 710.933 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(collections beloved by those who owned \(and trusted\) them. Hand-written texts copied the printed, and vice )] TJ ET BT 34.016 696.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(versa, creating a fluid exchange among the semi-private and aggressively public worlds of advice that )] TJ ET BT 34.016 682.421 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(frequently pivoted on the keeping and revelation of ?secrets?.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 656.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(The coexistence of manuscript and print, and the diverse motivations and contexts behind each, make the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 641.909 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(period 1550?1800 fundamentally different from our own ?reading? and ?writing?. Recipe books could thus )] TJ ET BT 34.016 627.653 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(be vastly more personal \(insofar as they were hand-written\) and, in the words of the editors, could provide a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 613.397 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?life-register? of an individual?s and by extension household?s daily life. The printed versions could provide )] TJ ET BT 34.016 599.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(regulatory advice that allowed readers to measure themselves against, and perhaps aspire to, potentially )] TJ ET BT 34.016 584.885 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(feasible norms. They could open up a world of recipes and, like the early novel, tempt readers to accept the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 570.629 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(word of someone they had never heard of.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 544.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Given the fluid, expansive compass of the genre, derived in part from routine copying and multiple )] TJ ET BT 34.016 530.117 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(inscriptions, several essays in )] TJ ET BT 179.000 530.117 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 279.668 530.117 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( address the question of ?authorship?, a perennial enquiry )] TJ ET BT 34.016 515.861 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(applied to texts of this period. We learn, for example, that manuscript recipe books make it hard to )] TJ ET BT 34.016 501.605 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(distinguish among those who originated, contributed, and merely owned a recipe, such that calling the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 487.349 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(compiler of a manuscript its ?author? would be anachronistic. We learn further that by studying these texts )] TJ ET BT 34.016 473.093 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(in context with letters and memoirs, we can establish the compilers? ?knowledge networks?, and obtain a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 458.837 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(more nuanced purchase on the origin and function of recipes in a given text. This is useful information, but )] TJ ET BT 34.016 444.581 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(how)] TJ ET BT 54.020 444.581 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( useful in terms of helping define the genre? It uncovers in yet another context what we already knew )] TJ ET BT 34.016 430.325 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(about this period: authorship is fraught with ambiguity, corresponding only occasionally with originality and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 416.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(often resonating with the authorization of a group; it was rarely anything that would have prompted )] TJ ET BT 34.016 401.813 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(proprietary notions. A few years ago, I taught a copyright course where I showed that 17th- and 18th-century )] TJ ET BT 34.016 387.557 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(approaches to authorship were coming back ? probably to an enthusiastic reception ? in the form of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 373.301 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(sampling, mash-ups, the Creative Commons, and the wholesale downloading of texts. I used old cookbooks )] TJ ET BT 34.016 359.045 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and culinary manuscripts, along with Renaissance plays and Defoe?s pseudonymous broadsides, to illustrate )] TJ ET BT 34.016 344.789 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(just how difficult it was to tie any of these texts to a person. My point here, as it was then, is that while )] TJ ET BT 34.016 330.533 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?authorship? is a necessary enquiry regarding any early modern text, what is special about authorship in )] TJ ET BT 34.016 316.277 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(recipe books such that we can obtain new insights into this function and, in fact, advance our understanding )] TJ ET BT 34.016 302.021 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(of such books? )] TJ ET endstream endobj 19 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Contents 20 0 R >> endobj 20 0 obj << /Length 7794 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 784.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(To answer this question, I would suggest that instead of focusing on ?networks? of contributors, which )] TJ ET BT 34.016 770.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(establishes a relationship limited to exchange, scholars should situate both manuscript and printed texts )] TJ ET BT 34.016 755.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(within a context of ?community,? both real and imagined. From a 21st-century point of view ? but more )] TJ ET BT 34.016 741.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(importantly, from that of our forebears ? the sources of recipes, and the nature of anyone?s proprietary )] TJ ET BT 34.016 727.445 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(relationship to them, are far less important than reading/writing a text that stands in for the authorizing )] TJ ET BT 34.016 713.189 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(presence of whomever the compiler knows, trusts, or thinks she ought to trust even if the recipe was flat out )] TJ ET BT 34.016 698.933 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(copied. Indeed, here is where manuscripts and printed texts converge, since the printed text sought to situate )] TJ ET BT 34.016 684.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the reader within a community ? which she could )] TJ ET BT 273.644 684.677 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(only)] TJ ET BT 294.308 684.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( imagine ? presided over by an expert who collated, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 670.421 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(vetted, and improved recipes from sources outside the reader?s personal network but within a community of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 656.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(recipe writers with shared domestic interests. Considered from this perspective, authorship emerges at every )] TJ ET BT 34.016 641.909 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(level \(the individual recipe writer, the one who passes it along, or the compiler\) as a status connoting )] TJ ET BT 34.016 627.653 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(privileged access; to be the first to write a recipe, if such a thing could ever be, would allow one to claim )] TJ ET BT 34.016 613.397 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(access to a communal experience enhancing one?s judgment as to what works in the stillroom or in the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 599.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(kitchen, personalized to take the most immediate advantage of such experience. It would also allow one to )] TJ ET BT 34.016 584.885 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(claim that one is the sum of one?s own experience, continually accessing memory rather than inventing from )] TJ ET BT 34.016 570.629 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(sudden \(perhaps suspect\) inspiration.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 544.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Thankfully, while some essays in )] TJ ET BT 197.336 544.373 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 298.004 544.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( may present recipe books generically ? more like )] TJ ET BT 34.016 530.117 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?texts? than a specific kind of text ? in other instances just the opposite is true: they explore how readers in )] TJ ET BT 34.016 515.861 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that place at that time would have consumed these books. Jayne Elizabeth Archer?s essay, ?The )] TJ ET BT 34.016 501.605 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?Quintessence of Wit?: poems and recipes in early modern women?s writing?, argues that recipe books )] TJ ET BT 34.016 487.349 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?helped facilitate the process by which housewifery was transformed into women?s literacy and authorship?, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 473.093 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(allowing women to use the recipe form as a poetic device, expressing intimate desires; the recipe was a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 458.837 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(model of stored knowledge, ?operating at the interface between mind and matter?, whose rhetoric women )] TJ ET BT 34.016 444.581 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(could deploy to remodel the material world. Thus just as a ?quintessence? \(distillation\) could be restorative, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 430.325 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(so poems as ?recipes? addressed issues that concerned women: unrequited love, fear of aging, and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 416.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(preservation of one?s reputation. Archer?s analysis offers a version of authorship emanating directly from )] TJ ET BT 34.016 401.813 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(women?s engagement with recipe books, showing how these books enabled women to address the world )] TJ ET BT 34.016 387.557 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\(even if only one other woman\) in a new way. This is the best kind of historicizing scholarship, allowing us )] TJ ET BT 34.016 373.301 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(to understand recipe books as they were actually used.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 347.045 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Another essay displaying this sensitivity is Anne Stobart?s ??Let her refrain from all hot spices?: medicinal )] TJ ET BT 34.016 332.789 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(recipes and advice in the treatment of the King?s Evil in seventeenth-century south-west England?. Here we )] TJ ET BT 34.016 318.533 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(read a recipe, never incorporated into a book perhaps because of its outspokenness, in which Bridget )] TJ ET BT 34.016 304.277 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Boscawen \(1666?1708\) openly voices disagreement with her doctors, convinced of what is right in her own )] TJ ET BT 34.016 290.021 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(case: ?I complaine of onely of there preprosporous [preposterous] order of things and concluding of my )] TJ ET BT 34.016 275.765 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(disses [disease] and cures according to there own concaites [conceits] and prescriptions unto which I shuld )] TJ ET BT 34.016 261.509 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(never yeald?. It was common for women to use manuscript recipe books to record all manner of household )] TJ ET BT 34.016 247.253 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and personal items, but it was highly unusual to record within the confines of a recipe itself one?s objections )] TJ ET BT 34.016 232.997 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(to its utility. The outcrop of this woman?s strong sense of self ? expressed as a desire for self-preservation ? )] TJ ET BT 34.016 218.741 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(allows us to see, again, how recipes and their consumers interacted.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 192.485 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(During this period, recipes and recipe books were intended to instruct readers in how to make something )] TJ ET BT 34.016 178.229 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(healthful or tasty, albeit they could wander off \(primarily in manuscript\) in idiosyncratic directions. My )] TJ ET BT 34.016 163.973 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(main concern with )] TJ ET BT 126.332 163.973 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 227.000 163.973 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(, therefore, is that the essays do not sufficiently attend to this )] TJ ET BT 34.016 149.717 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(fundamental, pedagogical impetus, and to the corresponding challenges that readers faced in trying to apply )] TJ ET BT 34.016 135.461 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(recipe books? instructions. We get no concrete sense of how women \(and sometimes men\) actually read and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 121.205 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(learned from these texts. How was it possible to follow a recipe that could be maddeningly imprecise, and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 106.949 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(what assumptions did writers make about readers? experience and capacities? Did they even make )] TJ ET BT 34.016 92.693 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(assumptions, or were they unequipped to ponder epistemological issues that affect any effort to ?translate? )] TJ ET BT 34.016 78.437 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(hands-on craft into abstract lesson? How did the printed text convince readers that its own instruction, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 64.181 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(premised on the imagined community that it contrived, was worth the price and commitment of time? And )] TJ ET BT 34.016 49.925 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(how did all those printed texts )] TJ ET BT 182.012 49.925 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(compete)] TJ ET BT 221.996 49.925 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( for readers? interest? While the essays feature much discussion of )] TJ ET endstream endobj 21 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Contents 22 0 R >> endobj 22 0 obj << /Length 7849 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 796.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the term ?probatum est? \(often appended to recipes that apparently worked\), I waited in vain for in-depth )] TJ ET BT 34.016 782.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(examinations of pedagogy and marketing, phenomena that were increasingly intertwined as print culture )] TJ ET BT 34.016 767.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(took off. Thus while each essay in )] TJ ET BT 201.320 767.957 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 301.988 767.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( is instructive, more than a few leave behind the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 753.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(whiff of the lamp. They tell us more than we might think to ask about these texts, but are reticent as to issues )] TJ ET BT 34.016 739.445 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that anyone who ever tried to use an old recipe would naturally want to know.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 713.189 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Gilly Lehmann?s essay, ?Reading recipe books and culinary history: opening a new field?, is a case in point. )] TJ ET BT 34.016 698.933 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(It analyzes changes in culinary styles during the earlier part of the period, and by reference to the visual arts )] TJ ET BT 34.016 684.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(detects a transition from Mannerist to Baroque as new dishes came into fashion. Accordingly, I now know )] TJ ET BT 34.016 670.421 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(how to identify Mannerist cuisine \(a love of forms and patterns, and of sugar throughout the meal\), but am )] TJ ET BT 34.016 656.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(still no better able to understand how cooks made sense of the instructions. The same might be said of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 641.909 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Francisco Alonso-Almeida?s ?Genre conventions in English recipes, 1600?1800?, which is a tour de force of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 627.653 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(linguistic analysis but ventures only fleetingly into the kitchen or stillroom. The essay offers a good anatomy )] TJ ET BT 34.016 613.397 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(of a recipe?s structure \(its ?genre conventions?\) and how it could help guide readers. But once a reader )] TJ ET BT 34.016 599.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(found a recipe and was helped to judge its efficacy, what then? We are left uncertain.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 572.885 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Indeed, in keeping with this reluctance to grapple with how readers reproduced recipes, Alonso-Almeida )] TJ ET BT 34.016 558.629 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(asserts that recipe books were \(and are\) ?discourse colonies?, lacking the temporal and logical devices )] TJ ET BT 34.016 544.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(common to narrative \(perhaps we might think of them as ?picaresque??\). In artifacts of this type, the whole )] TJ ET BT 34.016 530.117 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(does not depend on the unity of its parts, many of which can be rearranged or eliminated without loss of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 515.861 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(meaning; unity becomes an abstraction, derived from the text?s ?intention and utility?. But is such an )] TJ ET BT 34.016 501.605 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(approach helpful? To reduce recipe books? discourse to crowding atoms that might have escaped from a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 487.349 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Margaret Cavendish poem is an example of how scholarly ingenuity ? and it )] TJ ET BT 403.628 487.349 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(is)] TJ ET BT 411.632 487.349 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( ingenious to find a model for )] TJ ET BT 34.016 473.093 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the genre?s unfixed form ? can deflect our attention outwards, and overwrite recipe books? particular )] TJ ET BT 34.016 458.837 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(unifying structure and devices. Indeed, these texts did strive for a type of internal unity appropriate to their )] TJ ET BT 34.016 444.581 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(use: many proceeded through the calendar, and were organized further by the order of a meal. They boasted )] TJ ET BT 34.016 430.325 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(of helpful indices and, latterly, of cross references \(Alonso-Almeida dismisses such references, but in recipe )] TJ ET BT 34.016 416.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(books they are very useful\). Hannah Glasse logically featured a recipe for bread next to one for ale, since )] TJ ET BT 34.016 401.813 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(yeast rising off of one was necessary to produce the other. Such efforts ? primarily pedagogic, but also )] TJ ET BT 34.016 387.557 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(intended to best the competition ? would have been understood in the 17th and 18th centuries. My point, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 373.301 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(therefore, is that as modern readers we want to learn how these books actually )] TJ ET BT 412.256 373.301 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(operated)] TJ ET BT 454.916 373.301 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(, that is, how they )] TJ ET BT 34.016 359.045 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(sought to instruct contemporary readers )] TJ ET BT 227.648 359.045 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(at the point of reproduction)] TJ ET BT 360.320 359.045 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( and whether such efforts made sense )] TJ ET BT 34.016 344.789 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(under contemporary domestic conditions. To slot these books into an all-purpose anti-narrative form simply )] TJ ET BT 34.016 330.533 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(begs the question.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 304.277 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Lauren Winner?s essay, ?The Foote sisters? )] TJ ET BT 247.628 304.277 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Compleat Housewife)] TJ ET BT 347.960 304.277 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(: cookery texts as a source of lived )] TJ ET BT 34.016 290.021 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(religion?, ventures into a kitchen in colonial Virginia, and imagines a group of illiterate slave cooks )] TJ ET BT 34.016 275.765 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(pretending to follow their mistress? directions as she reads from a recipe book. This is an interesting idea, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 261.509 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(albeit it finesses the necessity to learn to cook from a book. Instead, it posits a parallel culinary culture in )] TJ ET BT 34.016 247.253 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(which slaves ?probably knew more about what went into preparing a decent-tasting meal than their owners?. )] TJ ET BT 34.016 232.997 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(How did they know? They certainly did not prepare fine cuisine for themselves, so someone with access to )] TJ ET BT 34.016 218.741 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the Big House must have taught them. Would that we had been told how this occurred. Winner is much )] TJ ET BT 34.016 204.485 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(more forthcoming on colonial Virginians? use of cookbooks to create meals that followed, in a comfortable )] TJ ET BT 34.016 190.229 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(rather than obsequious way, Anglican dictates regarding Lenten sacrifice. This part of the essay offers a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 175.973 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(striking \(if unintended\) parallel to the discussion of slaves, since it demonstrates women displaying the same )] TJ ET BT 34.016 161.717 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(ability to circumvent the male establishment \(the Church, but also husbands and fathers-in-law\) as slaves )] TJ ET BT 34.016 147.461 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(displayed towards their owners. Winner?s essay thus provides a wonderful sense of how recipe books were )] TJ ET BT 34.016 133.205 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?and were not ? used in a colonial household. Unfortunately, we are left with an intimation of lingering )] TJ ET BT 34.016 118.949 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(culinary knowledge that was somehow \(though we are not told how\) communicated to those who actually )] TJ ET BT 34.016 104.693 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(cooked.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 78.437 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(The best examination of how early culinary texts were produced and marketed is Margaret Ezell?s ?Cooking )] TJ ET BT 34.016 64.181 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the books, or, the three faces of Hannah Wooley?, which examines how the bibliographic entanglements of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 49.925 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Wooley?s texts reveal publishers? efforts to exploit an author?s name and image. Ezell looks at repeated )] TJ ET endstream endobj 23 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Annots [ 25 0 R 27 0 R 29 0 R ] /Contents 24 0 R >> endobj 24 0 obj << /Length 6541 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 796.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(editions and additions, possibly by Wooley but perhaps not, resulting in a densely layered textual accretion )] TJ ET BT 34.016 782.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that represents not so much Wooley?s latest inventions as ?a handy compendium of a long period of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 767.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(accumulated knowledge and skill ... involving the use of a recognizable image or images to stand in for )] TJ ET BT 34.016 753.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(those author attributes?. She looks at various portraits in overlapping, perhaps pirated editions. Whose face )] TJ ET BT 34.016 739.445 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(is really on the book, who had a hand in putting it on the book, and thus whose book really is it? By raising )] TJ ET BT 34.016 725.189 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(these questions, Ezell gets to the heart of an emerging publishing industry where the author?s personality )] TJ ET BT 34.016 710.933 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(becomes a node in a network of people involved in making and marketing a book. One need only read the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 696.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(prefaces to Defoe?s novels, a Gaston-and-Alphonse routine among authors, editors, and printers, to realize )] TJ ET BT 34.016 682.421 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(how this network could be exploited in any number of \(lucrative if evasive\) directions. Finally, Ezell raises )] TJ ET BT 34.016 668.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the issue of celebrity authorship, already apparent with Robert May?s )] TJ ET BT 370.952 668.165 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(The Accomplisht Cook )] TJ ET BT 482.612 668.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\(1660\), where )] TJ ET BT 34.016 653.909 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(an author?s name and image help sell the contents. Though Ezell situates Wooley?s texts within a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 639.653 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(commercial arena that encompassed much more than recipe books, she nonetheless demonstrates how we )] TJ ET BT 34.016 625.397 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(cannot comprehend such books ? what sort of recipes are offered, and where they came from ? unless we )] TJ ET BT 34.016 611.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(attend to their mode of production. This is one of the most useful essays in )] TJ ET BT 395.324 611.141 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 495.992 611.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(, and I hope )] TJ ET BT 34.016 596.885 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(it sets a standard for complementary efforts.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 570.629 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(In closing, I would like to recommend some further directions that recipe book studies could pursue. Except )] TJ ET BT 34.016 556.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(for the slaves in Lauren Winner?s essay, we get little sense from )] TJ ET BT 346.280 556.373 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 446.948 556.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( of whether the lower )] TJ ET BT 34.016 542.117 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(classes read recipe books. In fact, by the late 18th century, several texts were aimed at the ?poor?, often in )] TJ ET BT 34.016 527.861 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(conjunction with promoting vegetarianism. Others promoted soup or the use of ?substitutes?. These books )] TJ ET BT 34.016 513.605 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(were in many cases overtly political, seeking to offer the poor an alternative, cheaper diet to one based on )] TJ ET BT 34.016 499.349 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(white bread and meat \(when they could get it\). The politics of food in this period ? epitomized in titles like )] TJ ET BT 34.016 485.093 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Primitive Cookery)] TJ ET BT 122.336 485.093 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( \(1767\) ? is a huge issue, and one that deserves intense study. In this regard, the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 470.837 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(emergence of niche texts is important, as recipe books began appealing to various segments of the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 456.581 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(population \(for example, some people wanted a vegetarian diet\). Finally, how about all that advice in recipe )] TJ ET BT 34.016 442.325 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(books on combatting kitchen ?poisons? \(for example, seeping from chipped copper pots\), trussing and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 428.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(carving, and the etiquette of serving guests? Martha Bradley?s )] TJ ET BT 336.620 428.069 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(The British Housewife)] TJ ET BT 443.960 428.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( \(1756\) even tried to )] TJ ET BT 34.016 413.813 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(help women relax. Recipe books sought to be consulted in an array of contexts, all open to investigation.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 387.557 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Thus while )] TJ ET BT 90.680 387.557 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reading and Writing)] TJ ET BT 191.348 387.557 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( is immensely engaging, it only partly points the way to further scholarship. )] TJ ET BT 34.016 373.301 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(What it does do, however ? and quite brilliantly ? is demonstrate that recipe books can bear the weight of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 359.045 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(rigorous scholarship. This in itself should mark the arrival \(in Gilly Lehmann?s words\) of a ?new field?. )] TJ ET BT 34.016 324.147 Td /F3 18.0 Tf [(Notes)] TJ ET BT 48.816 293.530 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(1.)] TJ ET BT 64.016 293.525 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Susan J. Leonardi, ?Recipes for Reading: Summer pasta, Lobster a la Riseholme, and Key Lime pie?, )] TJ ET BT 64.016 279.269 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(PMLA)] TJ ET BT 95.348 279.269 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( , 104, 3 \(1989\), 340?7.)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 210.668 279.269 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Back to \(1\))] TJ ET 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 210.668 277.875 m 264.656 277.875 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 253.013 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Other reviews:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 238.757 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(The Recipes Project)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 34.016 224.501 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://recipes.hypotheses.org/tag/reading-and-writing-recipe-books)] TJ ET 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.016 223.107 m 355.292 223.107 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 358.292 224.501 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([2])] TJ ET 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.391 219.775 526.499 1.500 re S BT 34.016 201.995 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Source URL:)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 104.672 201.995 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/review/1507)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 104.672 200.601 m 328.316 200.601 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 175.624 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Links:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 161.224 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([1] http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/item/76771)] TJ ET BT 34.016 146.824 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([2] http://recipes.hypotheses.org/tag/reading-and-writing-recipe-books)] TJ ET endstream endobj 25 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 26 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 210.6677 278.1895 264.6557 290.0695 ] >> endobj 26 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /GoTo /D 14 0 R >> endobj 27 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 28 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 34.0157 223.4215 355.2917 235.3015 ] >> endobj 28 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://recipes.hypotheses.org/tag/reading-and-writing-recipe-books) >> endobj 29 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 30 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 104.6717 200.9155 328.3157 212.7955 ] >> endobj 30 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/review/1507) >> endobj xref 0 31 0000000000 65535 f 0000000008 00000 n 0000000073 00000 n 0000000119 00000 n 0000000349 00000 n 0000000386 00000 n 0000000552 00000 n 0000000641 00000 n 0000005255 00000 n 0000005364 00000 n 0000005474 00000 n 0000005583 00000 n 0000009144 00000 n 0000009272 00000 n 0000009356 00000 n 0000009385 00000 n 0000009513 00000 n 0000009549 00000 n 0000009614 00000 n 0000014777 00000 n 0000014842 00000 n 0000022689 00000 n 0000022754 00000 n 0000030656 00000 n 0000030754 00000 n 0000037348 00000 n 0000037476 00000 n 0000037531 00000 n 0000037658 00000 n 0000037776 00000 n 0000037904 00000 n trailer << /Size 31 /Root 1 0 R /Info 5 0 R >> startxref 38000 %%EOF