%PDF-1.3 1 0 obj << /Type /Catalog /Outlines 2 0 R /Pages 3 0 R >> endobj 2 0 obj << /Type /Outlines /Count 0 >> endobj 3 0 obj << /Type /Pages /Kids [6 0 R 14 0 R 16 0 R ] /Count 3 /Resources << /ProcSet 4 0 R /Font << /F1 8 0 R /F2 9 0 R /F3 10 0 R >> /XObject << /I1 11 0 R >> >> /MediaBox [0.000 0.000 595.280 841.890] >> endobj 4 0 obj [/PDF /Text /ImageC ] endobj 5 0 obj << /Creator (DOMPDF) /CreationDate (D:20150726231442+01'00') /ModDate (D:20150726231442+01'00') /Title (Dressing Renaissance Florence Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing) >> endobj 6 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Annots [ 12 0 R ] /Contents 7 0 R >> endobj 7 0 obj << /Length 4094 >> stream q 381.750 0 0 120.000 34.016 687.874 cm /I1 Do Q 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Published on )] TJ ET BT 99.356 676.469 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reviews in History)] TJ ET BT 190.016 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( \()] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 197.012 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 197.012 675.075 m 357.332 675.075 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 357.332 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\))] TJ ET 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.391 653.743 526.499 1.500 re S BT 34.016 615.321 Td /F3 18.0 Tf [(Dressing Renaissance Florence Families, Fortunes, and Fine )] TJ ET BT 34.016 593.937 Td /F3 18.0 Tf [(Clothing)] TJ ET BT 34.016 294.707 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(In a famous essay on the tenacity of the Burckhardtian conception of the Renaissance, Johan Huizinga wrote )] TJ ET BT 34.016 280.451 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that '[A]t the sound of the word ?Renaissance? the dreamer of past beauty sees purple and gold.' After )] TJ ET BT 34.016 266.195 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(reading Carole Collier Frick?s engrossing, multi-layered book, Huizinga?s romantic dreamers will have to )] TJ ET BT 34.016 251.939 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(become far more nuanced in their visual imaginings of the past. Purple, it turns out, might be the colour )] TJ ET BT 34.016 237.683 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(pavonazzo)] TJ ET BT 84.680 237.683 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(, but there is no consensus in the primary sources, and peacock blue, peahen brown, red violet, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 223.427 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(blue violet, and a colour 'between blue and black', are all equal contenders for the name.\(p. 170\) Indeed, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 209.171 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(whether it is possible to recapture precisely what people wore in this period is thrown open to question in )] TJ ET BT 34.016 194.915 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(this book when, in the absence of substantial material remains, all we are left with are literary and visual )] TJ ET BT 34.016 180.659 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(sources, both of which are deficient and often misleading, intentionally or otherwise.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 154.403 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Scholars in recent years have been busily compensating for Theodore Zeldin?s observation, that 'the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 140.147 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(consumer ? has yet to find an historian'. From Richard Goldthwaite?s analysis of Italy as the locus of the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 125.891 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(consumer revolution to Lisa Jardine?s exploration of worldly goods and Daniel Miller?s assertion that )] TJ ET BT 34.016 111.635 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [('consumption is the vanguard of history', it has become clear that the consumer is finally beginning to be )] TJ ET BT 34.016 97.379 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(taken seriously by a range of disciplines from anthropology, economics and sociology, to art history and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 83.123 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(history. Collier Frick draws on all these disciplines and is both empirically impressive and theoretically )] TJ ET BT 34.016 68.867 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(engaging.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 563.315 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Review Number:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 549.059 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(354)] TJ ET BT 34.016 534.803 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Publish date:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 520.547 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Sunday, 31 August, 2003)] TJ ET BT 34.016 506.291 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(ISBN:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 492.035 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(801869390X)] TJ ET BT 34.016 477.779 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Date of Publication:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 463.523 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(2002)] TJ ET BT 34.016 449.267 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Price:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 435.011 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(32.00)] TJ ET BT 34.016 420.755 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Pages:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 406.499 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(361pp.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 392.243 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Publisher:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 377.987 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(John Hopkins University Press)] TJ ET BT 34.016 363.731 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Place of Publication:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 349.475 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Baltimore)] TJ ET BT 34.016 335.219 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Reviewer:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 320.963 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Catherine Kovesi Killerby)] TJ ET endstream endobj 8 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F1 /BaseFont /Times-Roman /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 9 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F2 /BaseFont /Times-Italic /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 10 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F3 /BaseFont /Times-Bold /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 11 0 obj << /Type /XObject /Subtype /Image /Width 509 /Height 160 /Filter /FlateDecode /DecodeParms << /Predictor 15 /Colors 3 /Columns 509 /BitsPerComponent 8>> /Mask [ 255 255 255 255 255 255 ] /ColorSpace /DeviceRGB /BitsPerComponent 8 /Length 3280>> stream x[EQ㎦fVttҒ +3O{?lGDQԯDrB^.ϯ%~'0۠/2>0AG_>0j0GCfE67>rB^}@  !&y+r?INp:erc b8f=rQC!~-Wf^^zF[)G 2ޯe7V_Go3Ke GEGOo8rώ#\1ZY~N6^H}yLxS-!:412V+u\-LSO?xVvZ|GjǮT_8EYJF=Tw^ 7GxfN/S:Ʌ~ʟtt?5n÷J'JcF-GVξx{rO~tJd;#a\7}|~y'>}c2C vR}f׈**h.)_&@pfzjsx:5;S\vKhM5j=!Cn+h"u]a EUN]jn=k<,:Ք>sU!ni~6EJ)¦72?G}[y}_vc$t?iSܟ2Zݞ,VN?_`='RFK1A2qv&X_lLRWY'%:I㢖zb_UEx\>&ɆBˏ~K@ \gYØU4}$8Dv!'Q'*+Εj(UCGo[#< 2Ja(sZi9fZKE Rn`u\9r^Zmɯ׹}mstO4uc~#'jEvۼ Dx[z ޏQ4KL5,5u3>i^uÒ-53ba ~,~/pyt1fMU'CVm:qv~=Y'Es"WsφG?l_kN5}],Ow7 uh`xƫ?zMl7ٻv$A(4Dl(wwH} ?=[=S;yC]^BK>㕪9`Z'Wj;E|:bf>kCԘ#RY,iv쵗~}n'"1u" *uO΄/2^Sxr(!/DD\~mJyZ!MmrA!#u[if|99WB WΡpp}w}sh#,\ &:%˳X?D3 %W0cC?o̲^} F3XLVn]Cߖiϧ!7}yZJ#P7]=)7Ρp;>> Ye^xx{Oafw{ ;>4gfLt ʊ:q%#r/)pv!O4wGh|dS ӣݽހ-gVUC'pBxrB^} 7JA^} /'8!`:r?}}],X  }6y!`/~Br?}Q< >k7vx"] ,' .3jn{-i}|~%-};b6#U)7繎kiEw 㤳:E}[޼c"rꬊ7Dc$~"/Y&zSd:tFȌCrʙ`7u .#[-<)j ?TGS(j~oTup(hjU4PlJ=}|it.ҽ@\wʨuXÞZcx18Wo<~ikOg,ވ\^?EneyZcc0[R١z|zv7_m:_n]a?osS3~j^ hD.a_X'KfBX6w wݶ"Oa:,bvhrWH[uCF-Xfc}>x+Rz)2N-B 7y^٨;[/vg? | |2Sve}=o䑰j[vWjF0{굦?VI~}xM(_TlG__+]:#к?S} c>GŸD7 !w{S{B =x7a?oE#)+Gz:o_4Q<;n?\tt7?mGCџQGu4kņOF>F?#} hP&ђߴM#u!.СtL2^#o nIk_i.~7tr@n 1P~3?.[]=S5b߮~Yo^HFH YBi8a4iom>CKgMy*;?zqEӕ` >zB9iFzC?XF?ޟIܰ펉A}{I5ᄊx%ez#Mp@rߎpi]IOVjzuJt\۰f׺u5><,J~PTJp1)}){9N {!`/> endstream endobj 12 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 13 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 197.0117 675.3895 357.3317 687.2695 ] >> endobj 13 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews) >> endobj 14 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Contents 15 0 R >> endobj 15 0 obj << /Length 7494 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 784.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Building on the work of Jacqueline Herald, she provides a comprehensive glossary of fashion terminology )] TJ ET BT 34.016 770.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that is the most extensive to date and will be of enormous value to historians of costume. This glossary is )] TJ ET BT 34.016 755.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(amplified by fascinating details throughout the book. We hear, for instance, that it took a skilled weaver )] TJ ET BT 34.016 741.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(about six months to weave 50 )] TJ ET BT 180.008 741.701 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(braccia)] TJ ET BT 216.668 741.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( of three-pile brocaded velvet cloth which provided enough fabric for )] TJ ET BT 34.016 727.445 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(two sleeveless overgowns; or that the cost of two feet of taffeta was equal to one man?s food for a week; or )] TJ ET BT 34.016 713.189 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that the production of woollen cloth required at least 27 different processes, whilst silk required only nine; or )] TJ ET BT 34.016 698.933 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that by the end of the fourteenth century more than one million pelts of fur came to the West from Russia )] TJ ET BT 34.016 684.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and Poland. Through detailed analysis of family account books, she quantifies precisely how much of a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 670.421 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(patrician family?s income was devoted to clothing \(a staggering 40 per cent, it turns out\); but by tracking )] TJ ET BT 34.016 656.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(expenditure over time she also demonstrates that families were parsimonious in years in which no major )] TJ ET BT 34.016 641.909 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(event such as a wedding occurred. Marco Parenti, whose expenditure of 560 florins on his bride?s clothing )] TJ ET BT 34.016 627.653 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(has often been used as an example of foolishly extravagant expenditure, is found to have spent only 37.5 )] TJ ET BT 34.016 613.397 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(florins the following year and to have averaged only 106 florins annually for his whole family.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 587.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(But this book is more than a history of costume in Florence. By exploring the world of the artisanal class )] TJ ET BT 34.016 572.885 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that created the clothes, Collier Frick seeks to move beyond analyses of Florence that have simply )] TJ ET BT 34.016 558.629 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(concentrated on the gap between the labouring classes and the patriciate. Her careful analysis of )] TJ ET BT 497.888 558.629 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(catasto)] TJ ET BT 34.016 544.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(records reveals a city in which 900 heads of households declared a craft or trade relating to clothes in 1427. )] TJ ET BT 34.016 530.117 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(And in a fascinating table on p. 97 she compares earnings by occupation in the city, demonstrating that a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 515.861 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(weaver of brocaded velvet earned more in a year than the second chancellor of Florence or Brunelleschi, and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 501.605 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that a weaver of damask earned more than the average university professor. Collier Frick works exhaustively )] TJ ET BT 34.016 487.349 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(through all the categories of workers in the clothing industry, from wool beret makers to hosiers, sock )] TJ ET BT 34.016 473.093 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(makers, silk belt makers, doublet makers, embroiderers, purse makers, straw and felt hat makers, clasp, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 458.837 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(buckle and brooch makers \(to name only a few\). She tells us what they made, where they lived, and how )] TJ ET BT 34.016 444.581 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(much they got paid. Shoemakers for example, the most numerous category of clothier, were rarely paid but )] TJ ET BT 34.016 430.325 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(seem to have existed on credit.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 404.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(In Chapter 8 Collier Frick begins to unravel the meanings of clothes in the lives of Florentines. Using )] TJ ET BT 34.016 389.813 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Barthes? semiotic categories of technologic, verbal and iconic elements, she emphasises that, apart from a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 375.557 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(few fragments, the technologic element of the clothes themselves is no longer available for analysis. This )] TJ ET BT 34.016 361.301 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(leaves the historian with the verbal and iconic elements, both of which prove problematic. In her chapter on )] TJ ET BT 34.016 347.045 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the officials upholding sumptuary regulations, a sort of Florentine 'fashion police', Collier Frick?s mastery of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 332.789 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(fashion terminology leads to all sorts of interesting conclusions about the written descriptions of clothes and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 318.533 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the elusiveness of many colours and fabrics. She demonstrates that the static nature of Latin statute )] TJ ET BT 34.016 304.277 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(vocabulary could not possibly keep pace with the living vernacular, which in turn could not fully encompass )] TJ ET BT 34.016 290.021 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the endless varieties of cloth, dyes, and construction techniques. Sumptuary officials, working in official )] TJ ET BT 34.016 275.765 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Latin, had to struggle to categorise what they encountered on the streets with frustrating results for enforcing )] TJ ET BT 34.016 261.509 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the law.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 235.253 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Collier Frick?s final chapter deals with Barthes? iconic element. This is a self-contained essay on painted )] TJ ET BT 34.016 220.997 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(clothes that takes up the challenge first posed by Elizabeth Birbari in her )] TJ ET BT 385.628 220.997 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Dress in Italian Painting, 1460-)] TJ ET BT 34.016 206.741 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(1500)] TJ ET BT 58.016 206.741 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( \(London: J. Murray, 1975\). She argues that frescoes freeze-framed young nubile women \(not yet )] TJ ET BT 34.016 192.485 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(subject to sumptuary restrictions\) as objects of honour, while men stood as bearers of the egalitarian ideal. )] TJ ET BT 34.016 178.229 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(For this reason the clothes depicted in the frescoes served specific functions and on examination were often )] TJ ET BT 34.016 163.973 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(at odds with the known reality as described in family record books. She concludes that there is no visual )] TJ ET BT 34.016 149.717 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(source from the Renaissance that can be thought of merely as a clothing illustration but rather that we 'see )] TJ ET BT 34.016 135.461 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(just what the Florentines wanted us to see.'\(p. 10\))] TJ ET BT 34.016 109.205 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(I have only a small criticism of this book. By concentrating so exclusively on Florence, Collier Frick )] TJ ET BT 34.016 94.949 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(concludes that, 'For the first time in European history, it was here in Quattrocento Florence that ?fashion? )] TJ ET BT 34.016 80.693 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(was fully articulated and became the most widely available form of conspicuous consumption' \(p. 178\), and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 66.437 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(in her introduction she marks out Florence as Renaissance Italy?s 'most style-conscious city'. And yet all the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 52.181 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(towns of central and northern Italy were preoccupied by clothing and its meanings. Indeed, one could argue )] TJ ET endstream endobj 16 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Annots [ 18 0 R 20 0 R ] /Contents 17 0 R >> endobj 17 0 obj << /Length 2021 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 796.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(that as Florence had many more sumptuary restrictions than other towns, style had fewer modes of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 782.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(expression in Florence than elsewhere. As Collier Frick herself points out, the uniform appearance of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 767.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Florentine patrician men?s scarlet gowns allowed for variation only in headwear. The work of Rosita Levi )] TJ ET BT 34.016 753.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Pisetzky on clothing in Milan alone would make one query Collier Frick?s assertions about Florentine )] TJ ET BT 34.016 739.445 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(primacy. The foppish Sienese gentlemen illustrated on p. 171 also undermines this assertion, and there are )] TJ ET BT 34.016 725.189 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(other numerous examples that could do likewise. This is, however, a wonderful book, after reading which )] TJ ET BT 34.016 710.933 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(we will not be able to visualise Renaissance Florence in the same way again.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 684.677 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Other reviews:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 670.421 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(H-Net Reviews)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 34.016 656.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.h-net.org/reviews/showrev.php)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.016 654.771 m 240.992 654.771 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 243.992 656.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([2])] TJ ET 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.391 651.439 526.499 1.500 re S BT 34.016 633.659 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Source URL:)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 104.672 633.659 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/review/354)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 104.672 632.265 m 322.316 632.265 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 607.288 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Links:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 592.888 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([1] http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/item/2016)] TJ ET BT 34.016 578.488 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([2] http://www.h-net.org/reviews/showrev.php?id=9483)] TJ ET endstream endobj 18 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 19 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 34.0157 655.0855 240.9917 666.9655 ] >> endobj 19 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.h-net.org/reviews/showrev.php?id=9483) >> endobj 20 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 21 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 104.6717 632.5795 322.3157 644.4595 ] >> endobj 21 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/review/354) >> endobj xref 0 22 0000000000 65535 f 0000000008 00000 n 0000000073 00000 n 0000000119 00000 n 0000000335 00000 n 0000000372 00000 n 0000000563 00000 n 0000000645 00000 n 0000004791 00000 n 0000004900 00000 n 0000005010 00000 n 0000005119 00000 n 0000008680 00000 n 0000008808 00000 n 0000008892 00000 n 0000008957 00000 n 0000016504 00000 n 0000016595 00000 n 0000018669 00000 n 0000018796 00000 n 0000018896 00000 n 0000019024 00000 n trailer << /Size 22 /Root 1 0 R /Info 5 0 R >> startxref 19119 %%EOF