%PDF-1.3 1 0 obj << /Type /Catalog /Outlines 2 0 R /Pages 3 0 R >> endobj 2 0 obj << /Type /Outlines /Count 0 >> endobj 3 0 obj << /Type /Pages /Kids [6 0 R 17 0 R 19 0 R 31 0 R ] /Count 4 /Resources << /ProcSet 4 0 R /Font << /F1 8 0 R /F2 9 0 R /F3 10 0 R >> /XObject << /I1 11 0 R >> >> /MediaBox [0.000 0.000 595.280 841.890] >> endobj 4 0 obj [/PDF /Text /ImageC ] endobj 5 0 obj << /Creator (DOMPDF) /CreationDate (D:20140416154251+01'00') /ModDate (D:20140416154251+01'00') /Title (Glamour. A History) >> endobj 6 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Annots [ 12 0 R 15 0 R ] /Contents 7 0 R >> endobj 7 0 obj << /Length 4463 >> stream q 381.750 0 0 120.000 34.016 687.874 cm /I1 Do Q 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Published on )] TJ ET BT 99.356 676.469 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Reviews in History)] TJ ET BT 190.016 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( \()] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 197.012 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 197.012 675.075 m 357.332 675.075 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 357.332 676.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\))] TJ ET 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.391 653.743 526.499 1.500 re S BT 34.016 615.321 Td /F3 18.0 Tf [(Glamour. A History)] TJ ET BT 34.016 287.579 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Stephen Gundle, Professor of Film and Television Studies at Warwick University, has written a substantial )] TJ ET BT 34.016 273.323 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and engaging history of the elusive concept and practice\(s\) of glamour. While Gundle devotes much space to )] TJ ET BT 34.016 259.067 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the star system and Hollywood movie actresses from the 1930s through to the 1950s and somewhat less )] TJ ET BT 34.016 244.811 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(space to television programming, especially of the ?lifestyles of the rich and famous? type, in the next few )] TJ ET BT 34.016 230.555 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(decades, he pays equal attention to the role of novels, the press, paintings and photography in Western )] TJ ET BT 34.016 216.299 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Europe and the United States from the late 18th century to the late 20th century. The author?s previous )] TJ ET BT 34.016 202.043 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(scholarship on mass media, cultural politics and fashion in the 19th century informs this longer and broader )] TJ ET BT 34.016 187.787 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(historical framework and distinguishes his study of glamour from more specialised \(but not necessarily more )] TJ ET BT 34.016 173.531 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(scholarly\) works.)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 117.332 173.531 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\(1\))] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 117.332 172.137 m 131.324 172.137 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 147.275 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(In addition to employing and citing leading film scholars to interpret films, television, and visual culture )] TJ ET BT 34.016 133.019 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(more generally, Gundle incorporates ideas from cultural theorists such as Baudelaire \(on the )] TJ ET BT 479.924 133.019 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(flaneu)] TJ ET BT 509.924 133.019 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(r\), )] TJ ET BT 34.016 118.763 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Baudrillard \(on the simulacrum\), and Walter Benjamin \(on the arcades of Paris as ?housing for the dreaming )] TJ ET BT 34.016 104.507 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(collective?\), as well as feminist theorists like Simone de Beauvoir \(on courtesans? materialism and self-)] TJ ET BT 34.016 90.251 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(gratification\). Yet the relevant ideas of these theorists are always integrated into Gundle?s own analysis and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 75.995 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(used to interpret the many manifestations of glamour he describes in )] TJ ET BT 365.636 75.995 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Glamour. A History)] TJ ET BT 461.300 75.995 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(. His literary and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 61.739 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(print culture criticism of a broad range of novels and other print media unpack their meaning for notions of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 584.699 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Review Number:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 570.443 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(713)] TJ ET BT 34.016 556.187 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Publish date:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 541.931 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Wednesday, 31 December, 2008)] TJ ET BT 34.016 527.675 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Author:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 513.419 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Stephen Gundle)] TJ ET BT 34.016 499.163 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(ISBN:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 484.907 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(9780199210985)] TJ ET BT 34.016 470.651 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Date of Publication:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 456.395 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(2008)] TJ ET BT 34.016 442.139 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Price:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 427.883 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(20.00)] TJ ET BT 34.016 413.627 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Pages:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 399.371 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(464pp.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 385.115 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Publisher:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 370.859 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Oxford University Press)] TJ ET BT 34.016 356.603 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Place of Publication:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 342.347 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Oxford)] TJ ET BT 34.016 328.091 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Reviewer:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 313.835 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Mary Lynn Stewart)] TJ ET endstream endobj 8 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F1 /BaseFont /Times-Roman /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 9 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F2 /BaseFont /Times-Italic /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 10 0 obj << /Type /Font /Subtype /Type1 /Name /F3 /BaseFont /Times-Bold /Encoding /WinAnsiEncoding >> endobj 11 0 obj << /Type /XObject /Subtype /Image /Width 509 /Height 160 /Filter /FlateDecode /DecodeParms << /Predictor 15 /Colors 3 /Columns 509 /BitsPerComponent 8>> /Mask [ 255 255 255 255 255 255 ] /ColorSpace /DeviceRGB /BitsPerComponent 8 /Length 3280>> stream x[EQ㎦fVttҒ +3O{?lGDQԯDrB^.ϯ%~'0۠/2>0AG_>0j0GCfE67>rB^}@  !&y+r?INp:erc b8f=rQC!~-Wf^^zF[)G 2ޯe7V_Go3Ke GEGOo8rώ#\1ZY~N6^H}yLxS-!:412V+u\-LSO?xVvZ|GjǮT_8EYJF=Tw^ 7GxfN/S:Ʌ~ʟtt?5n÷J'JcF-GVξx{rO~tJd;#a\7}|~y'>}c2C vR}f׈**h.)_&@pfzjsx:5;S\vKhM5j=!Cn+h"u]a EUN]jn=k<,:Ք>sU!ni~6EJ)¦72?G}[y}_vc$t?iSܟ2Zݞ,VN?_`='RFK1A2qv&X_lLRWY'%:I㢖zb_UEx\>&ɆBˏ~K@ \gYØU4}$8Dv!'Q'*+Εj(UCGo[#< 2Ja(sZi9fZKE Rn`u\9r^Zmɯ׹}mstO4uc~#'jEvۼ Dx[z ޏQ4KL5,5u3>i^uÒ-53ba ~,~/pyt1fMU'CVm:qv~=Y'Es"WsφG?l_kN5}],Ow7 uh`xƫ?zMl7ٻv$A(4Dl(wwH} ?=[=S;yC]^BK>㕪9`Z'Wj;E|:bf>kCԘ#RY,iv쵗~}n'"1u" *uO΄/2^Sxr(!/DD\~mJyZ!MmrA!#u[if|99WB WΡpp}w}sh#,\ &:%˳X?D3 %W0cC?o̲^} F3XLVn]Cߖiϧ!7}yZJ#P7]=)7Ρp;>> Ye^xx{Oafw{ ;>4gfLt ʊ:q%#r/)pv!O4wGh|dS ӣݽހ-gVUC'pBxrB^} 7JA^} /'8!`:r?}}],X  }6y!`/~Br?}Q< >k7vx"] ,' .3jn{-i}|~%-};b6#U)7繎kiEw 㤳:E}[޼c"rꬊ7Dc$~"/Y&zSd:tFȌCrʙ`7u .#[-<)j ?TGS(j~oTup(hjU4PlJ=}|it.ҽ@\wʨuXÞZcx18Wo<~ikOg,ވ\^?EneyZcc0[R١z|zv7_m:_n]a?osS3~j^ hD.a_X'KfBX6w wݶ"Oa:,bvhrWH[uCF-Xfc}>x+Rz)2N-B 7y^٨;[/vg? | |2Sve}=o䑰j[vWjF0{굦?VI~}xM(_TlG__+]:#к?S} c>GŸD7 !w{S{B =x7a?oE#)+Gz:o_4Q<;n?\tt7?mGCџQGu4kņOF>F?#} hP&ђߴM#u!.СtL2^#o nIk_i.~7tr@n 1P~3?.[]=S5b߮~Yo^HFH YBi8a4iom>CKgMy*;?zqEӕ` >zB9iFzC?XF?ޟIܰ펉A}{I5ᄊx%ez#Mp@rߎpi]IOVjzuJt\۰f׺u5><,J~PTJp1)}){9N {!`/> endstream endobj 12 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 13 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 197.0117 675.3895 357.3317 687.2695 ] >> endobj 13 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews) >> endobj 14 0 obj [6 0 R /Fit] endobj 15 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 16 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 117.3317 172.4515 131.3237 184.3315 ] >> endobj 16 0 obj << /Type /Action >> endobj 17 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Contents 18 0 R >> endobj 18 0 obj << /Length 7598 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 796.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(glamour, though curiously there are fewer trenchant criticisms of films or television programmes.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 770.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Like most students of glamour, Gundle offers a definition, complete with his version of the etymology of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 755.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(glamour. Unlike some of these scholars, he foregoes reaching far and wide for the origins of the word ? for )] TJ ET BT 34.016 741.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(instance, in Icelandic folklore ? and settles on identifying its first occurrence in English literature in an 1805 )] TJ ET BT 34.016 727.445 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(poem by Sir Walter Scott. He traces Scott?s usage to the term glamer in low Scots language and tells his )] TJ ET BT 34.016 713.189 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(readers that glamer meant the influence of a charm on the eye. This is an apt beginning of a definition that )] TJ ET BT 34.016 698.933 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Gundle explains is difficult to pin down. The definition he gives in the introduction and elaborates )] TJ ET BT 34.016 684.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(throughout the book privileges the ability to transform the image of people ? primarily women ? through )] TJ ET BT 34.016 670.421 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(their appearance and the creation of illusions. He explains that glamour has the ?oxymoronic qualities? of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 656.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(sleaze and class, ?accessible exclusivity, and democratic elitism? \(p. 12\). In the acknowledgements, he )] TJ ET BT 34.016 641.909 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(declares that he does not believe glamour is ?just make-believe? but that it is also ?a source of visual )] TJ ET BT 34.016 627.653 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(excitement and pleasure? \(p. vii\). Although he repeats descriptors like glitzy, ostentatious, and brash he also )] TJ ET BT 34.016 613.397 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(conveys the theatricality and entertainment value of glamour.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 587.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(According to )] TJ ET BT 100.004 587.141 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Glamour)] TJ ET BT 143.336 587.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(, the earliest occurrences of the glamour phenomenon were in the late 18th and early )] TJ ET BT 34.016 572.885 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(19th centuries in Britain and France. A revealing comparison clarifies the social and cultural meaning of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 558.629 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(glamour: Marie Antoinette, whose status was established by birth and bloodline and who alienated the public )] TJ ET BT 34.016 544.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(with her extravagance and aloofness, is not a glamorous figure \(whatever Sophia Coppola?s film suggests\); )] TJ ET BT 34.016 530.117 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Napoleon Bonaparte, an upstart who ?fabricated his own myth? and deployed grand spectacles to draw and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 515.861 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(hold public attention, was glamorous \(p. 28\). The luxury and display of European courts was not for public )] TJ ET BT 34.016 501.605 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(consumption, for the European aristocracy did not need ? or did not think that they needed ? public sanction; )] TJ ET BT 34.016 487.349 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the equally luxurious and far more public rituals of the Napoleonic Empire were designed to shore up public )] TJ ET BT 34.016 473.093 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(support. For nearly a century, glamour was associated with bourgeois emulators of the trappings of )] TJ ET BT 34.016 458.837 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(aristocratic society and lifestyles in Western Europe. The setting was a new society of mobility, both social )] TJ ET BT 34.016 444.581 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and geographic. Although America became the lodestone of glamour in the 20th century, Americans, many )] TJ ET BT 34.016 430.325 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(of whom were European emigrants, often referenced European standards or models or, increasingly, media )] TJ ET BT 34.016 416.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(representations of European glamour. )] TJ ET BT 217.640 416.069 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Glamour)] TJ ET BT 260.972 416.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( is persuasive about the importance of imitation and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 401.813 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(simulation based on nostalgia and pastiche in the reproduction of glamour.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 375.557 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Ultimately, Gundle argues that glamour was international, not national, in geographic scope. More )] TJ ET BT 34.016 361.301 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(particularly, glamour was an urban phenomenon, with an emphasis on large world cities like Paris, London, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 347.045 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Rome, New York and Los Angeles. Large cities were more dynamic and mobile than the countryside or )] TJ ET BT 34.016 332.789 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(smaller cities; in large cities, one encountered and tried to impress people one did not know; shops, stores, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 318.533 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and theatres, clustered in clearly delineated ?fashionable areas? where the glamorati gathered ? and towards )] TJ ET BT 34.016 304.277 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the end of the fashionable period of any area, the wannabe glamorati flocked; store windows, people in )] TJ ET BT 34.016 290.021 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(cafes, and street life itself provided a visual feast for urban )] TJ ET BT 318.608 290.021 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(flaneurs )] TJ ET BT 360.944 290.021 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\(and by the 1890s, though Gundle does )] TJ ET BT 34.016 275.765 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(not mention this, )] TJ ET BT 118.028 275.765 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(flaneuses)] TJ ET BT 162.692 275.765 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(\).)] TJ ET BT 34.016 249.509 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Glamour then is tied to modern economies and modernity. Gundle offers an economic explanation about the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 235.253 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(rise of industrialism and economic growth, but focuses on the emergence of a commodity culture in which )] TJ ET BT 34.016 220.997 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(advertising and publicity, tied closely to the public media and the entertainment world, promotes )] TJ ET BT 34.016 206.741 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(consumption of products to transform the self. As advertising develops, it depends more on visual depictions )] TJ ET BT 34.016 192.485 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(of glamorous people ? again, mainly women ? to provoke yearning for their glamorous lifestyle, cleverly )] TJ ET BT 34.016 178.229 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(associated with the products but more directly, with the models, stars, socialites and celebrities that are )] TJ ET BT 34.016 163.973 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(represented in the advertising. Equally importantly, glamour can rarely be obtained, so it leads to )] TJ ET BT 34.016 149.717 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?unquenched yearning? and presumably consumption \(p. 14\).)] TJ ET BT 34.016 123.461 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(One of the most attractive aspects of Gundle?s work are his combinations of brief descriptions of categories )] TJ ET BT 34.016 109.205 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(of glamorous personalities and more detailed though still succinct biographies of glamorous individuals. The )] TJ ET BT 34.016 94.949 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(first group biography is of the English Romantics, with their penchant for exotic or at least remote places )] TJ ET BT 34.016 80.693 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and peoples or distant times. One of the accompanying individual biographies is of Lord Byron, who )] TJ ET BT 34.016 66.437 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(cultivated his appearance and styled his public movements. The second prosopography is of the courtesans )] TJ ET BT 34.016 52.181 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(of Second Empire Paris, expensively attired and extravagantly bejeweled, using costume and cosmetics, as )] TJ ET endstream endobj 19 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Annots [ 21 0 R 23 0 R 25 0 R 27 0 R 29 0 R ] /Contents 20 0 R >> endobj 20 0 obj << /Length 7240 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 796.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(well as lavish homes and spectacular public appearance, to attract and hold the wealthy men who ?kept? )] TJ ET BT 34.016 782.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(them as well as public attention, even adoration. Biographies of notorious ?)] TJ ET BT 396.308 782.213 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(grandes horizontales)] TJ ET BT 497.312 782.213 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(? like Liane )] TJ ET BT 34.016 767.957 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(de Pougy follow.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 741.701 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Most of the profiles are of women, and their changing profiles indicate changes in glamour over time. By the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 727.445 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(late 19th century, actresses were more publicly displayed and subject to collective erotic fantasies than )] TJ ET BT 34.016 713.189 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(courtesans ever were, yet they remained sufficiently distant to retain some mystery. Sarah Bernhardt, with )] TJ ET BT 34.016 698.933 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(her conspicuous self-display \(not only on stage but on posters\) and quite conscious artificiality, deliberately )] TJ ET BT 34.016 684.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(sought sensation and notoriety. In the )] TJ ET BT 217.004 684.677 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(fin de sicle)] TJ ET BT 274.328 684.677 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(, Gaity Girls and later, in the United States, showgirls, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 670.421 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(played the role of beautiful but thoroughly artificial and theatrical glamour girls. Between the two world )] TJ ET BT 34.016 656.165 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(wars, glamour was represented by caf society and movie actresses. New popular newspapers, many of them )] TJ ET BT 34.016 641.909 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(tabloids, and their society reporters exploited curiosity about high society and especially debutantes, writing )] TJ ET BT 34.016 627.653 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(voyeuristic narratives about their gilded existence. Other, often male, ?professionals? in the publicity )] TJ ET BT 34.016 613.397 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(departments of Hollywood studios choreographed actresses? professional and private lives, prescribing not )] TJ ET BT 34.016 599.141 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(only the roles, costumes, make-up and publicity shots for their films, but also renaming them, falsifying their )] TJ ET BT 34.016 584.885 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(life stories and tutoring them in etiquette, posture, gestures, etc. As Gundle points out, all this manipulation )] TJ ET BT 34.016 570.629 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(tended to the standardisation of stars as products, depersonalising their faces to turn them ?into something )] TJ ET BT 34.016 556.373 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(artificial and alluring? \(p. 180\). When movie stars escaped the studio system and eschewed the fashionable )] TJ ET BT 34.016 542.117 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and glamorous life, supermodels filled the void. Many of these models were defined, in many ways created, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 527.861 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(by other professionals, the photographer and stylist, who chose their wardrobes, props and/or furnishings, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 513.605 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(and entertainments on and off the catwalk and on and off camera. The message is made explicit: they were )] TJ ET BT 34.016 499.349 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(?groomed? to be glamorous. The culmination of this trend is the celebrity for the sake of celebrity, the )] TJ ET BT 34.016 485.093 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(prototype being Paris Hilton.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 458.837 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Glamour, scholars agree, is linked inextricably to both fashion and femininity. Gundle does not directly cite )] TJ ET BT 34.016 444.581 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(the old distinction between style, which is individual and constant, and fashion, which is trendy and )] TJ ET BT 34.016 430.325 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(transient, but he does contrast the elegance of older elites, with their poise, control and up-market wardrobes, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 416.069 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(to the more youthful, dynamic, pleasure-seeking and down-market qualities of the modern fashion system. )] TJ ET BT 34.016 401.813 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Conversely and thankfully, he avoids common connections between fashion and frivolity, especially a )] TJ ET BT 34.016 387.557 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(preoccupation with mere appearances and decoration. However, his remarks about relationships between )] TJ ET BT 34.016 373.301 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(fashion and femininity, and between glamour and femininity, are more problematic. He notes, but does not )] TJ ET BT 34.016 359.045 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(deconstruct, the cultural assumptions that women are more interested in fashion, that decoration is gendered )] TJ ET BT 34.016 344.789 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(feminine and that dandies and other men interested in fashion are ? or are construed as ? effeminate. He )] TJ ET BT 34.016 330.533 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(might also have paused to do some analysis of the relationship between imaginings about the female body, )] TJ ET BT 34.016 316.277 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(erotic fantasies, and glamour.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 281.379 Td /F3 18.0 Tf [(Notes)] TJ ET BT 48.816 250.762 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(1.)] TJ ET BT 64.016 250.757 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(See for example R. L. Davis, )] TJ ET BT 206.324 250.757 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Glamour Factory: Inside Hollywood?s Big Studio System)] TJ ET BT 482.972 250.757 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( \(Dallas, Tex., )] TJ ET BT 64.016 236.501 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(1993\), or )] TJ ET BT 111.008 236.501 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(Glamour: Fashion, Industrial Design, Architecture)] TJ ET BT 356.996 236.501 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(, ed. J. Rosa )] TJ ET BT 417.992 236.501 Td /F2 12.0 Tf [(et al.)] TJ ET BT 441.992 236.501 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [( \(San Francisco/New )] TJ ET BT 64.016 222.245 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Haven, 2004\). )] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 135.332 222.245 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Back to \(1\))] TJ ET 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 135.332 220.851 m 189.320 220.851 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 195.989 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(The author is happy to accept this review and does not wish to comment further.)] TJ ET BT 34.016 169.733 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Other reviews:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 155.477 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(New York Times)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 34.016 141.221 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/21/books/review/Weber-t.html)] TJ ET 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.016 139.827 m 347.012 139.827 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 350.012 141.221 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([2])] TJ ET BT 34.016 126.965 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Independent)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 34.016 112.709 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/reviews/glamour-a-history-by-stephen-gundle-)] TJ ET 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.016 111.315 m 530.276 111.315 l S BT 34.016 98.453 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(879320.html)] TJ ET 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.016 97.059 m 95.024 97.059 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 98.024 98.453 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([3])] TJ ET BT 34.016 84.197 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(Guardian)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 34.016 69.941 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2009/aug/22/glamour-a-history-stephen-gundle)] TJ ET 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.016 68.547 m 425.648 68.547 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 428.648 69.941 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([4])] TJ ET 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 34.391 65.215 526.499 1.500 re S endstream endobj 21 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 22 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 135.3317 221.1655 189.3197 233.0455 ] >> endobj 22 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /GoTo /D 14 0 R >> endobj 23 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 24 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 34.0157 140.1415 347.0117 152.0215 ] >> endobj 24 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/21/books/review/Weber-t.html?_r=1) >> endobj 25 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 26 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 34.0157 111.6295 530.2757 123.5095 ] >> endobj 26 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/reviews/glamour-a-history-by-stephen-gundle-879320.html) >> endobj 27 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 28 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 34.0157 97.3735 95.0237 109.2535 ] >> endobj 28 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/reviews/glamour-a-history-by-stephen-gundle-879320.html) >> endobj 29 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 30 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 34.0157 68.8615 425.6477 80.7415 ] >> endobj 30 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2009/aug/22/glamour-a-history-stephen-gundle) >> endobj 31 0 obj << /Type /Page /Parent 3 0 R /Annots [ 33 0 R ] /Contents 32 0 R >> endobj 32 0 obj << /Length 911 >> stream 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg 0.502 0.502 0.502 RG 0.75 w 0 J [ ] 0 d BT 34.016 796.469 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Source URL:)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 rg BT 104.672 796.469 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/review/713)] TJ ET 0.000 0.000 0.800 RG 0.24 w 0 J [ ] 0 d 104.672 795.075 m 322.316 795.075 l S 0.000 0.000 0.000 rg BT 34.016 770.098 Td /F3 12.0 Tf [(Links:)] TJ ET BT 34.016 755.698 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([1] http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/item/3690)] TJ ET BT 34.016 741.298 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([2] http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/21/books/review/Weber-t.html?_r=1)] TJ ET BT 34.016 727.013 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([3] http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/reviews/glamour-a-history-by-stephen-gundle-)] TJ ET BT 34.016 712.642 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [(879320.html)] TJ ET BT 34.016 698.242 Td /F1 12.0 Tf [([4] http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2009/aug/22/glamour-a-history-stephen-gundle)] TJ ET endstream endobj 33 0 obj << /Type /Annot /Subtype /Link /A 34 0 R /Border [0 0 0] /H /I /Rect [ 104.6717 795.3895 322.3157 807.2695 ] >> endobj 34 0 obj << /Type /Action /S /URI /URI (http://www.history.ac.uk/reviews/review/713) >> endobj xref 0 35 0000000000 65535 f 0000000008 00000 n 0000000073 00000 n 0000000119 00000 n 0000000342 00000 n 0000000379 00000 n 0000000521 00000 n 0000000610 00000 n 0000005125 00000 n 0000005234 00000 n 0000005344 00000 n 0000005453 00000 n 0000009014 00000 n 0000009142 00000 n 0000009226 00000 n 0000009255 00000 n 0000009383 00000 n 0000009419 00000 n 0000009484 00000 n 0000017135 00000 n 0000017247 00000 n 0000024540 00000 n 0000024668 00000 n 0000024723 00000 n 0000024850 00000 n 0000024966 00000 n 0000025093 00000 n 0000025254 00000 n 0000025379 00000 n 0000025540 00000 n 0000025665 00000 n 0000025793 00000 n 0000025877 00000 n 0000026840 00000 n 0000026968 00000 n trailer << /Size 35 /Root 1 0 R /Info 5 0 R >> startxref 27063 %%EOF